Stacking filters is generally not a great idea, in part because of lens flare, but also because at the widest angles, the protruding filters may cause vignetting, or darkening of the corners of your view.
The filter size for the 55-300mm, which also, unfortunately, has a rotating front element, is 58mm. The filter size for the 18-55mm of all kinds, and for many other Nikon lenses, is 52mm. If by some chance you are getting the later version of the 18-55mm (distinguished by having a push button for retracting the lens), then it also has a non-rotating front element, and a polarizing filter will work nicely on it. Again, though, the uses for a ND filter are relatively limited. An ND filter is useful when conditions outdoors are bright, and you wish to use a wide aperture to limit the depth of field and blur backgrounds. These do not depend on rotation, but darken the image in the lens to a degree (depending on the strength of the filter). It's still something that can be used, but it's really only convenient to use for scenic work on a tripod.Īnother filter that can be useful is a neutral density filter. This means that a polarizing filter can only work properly if you adjust it after focus is achieved, and then make sure that AF does not operate after it's set up. The problem here is that the action of the filter depends on precise rotation of its front element, and lenses such as the usual kit lens on cameras before the D3300 and D5300 have a rotating front element. A little front element wear and tear will never be seen on your pictures anyway, but flare will.Ī polarizing filter is the only one whose effect cannot be duplicated in any other way, because it actually filters out certain wave patterns, and reduces glare and reflection as nothing else can. I think this is especially true for the kit zoom, because, although it is a good lens and very useful, it's relatively cheap to replace. Some people are convinced that they should always have a sacrificial filter on a lens, but others skip it, preferring to avoid any possible degradation of the image from the filter itself. You will have little if any effect from these, except for an increased likelihood of flare from the added layer of glass.Ī filter of this sort is useful to have around if you expect to use your lens in very harsh environments such as ocean spray or blowing sand, to protect the lens, but the likelihood of preventing ordinary damage is very small, and rarely pays off. The actual filtering such things do is not necessary for digital cameras, whose bandwidth is better controlled than it was for film. First of all, I would suggest you skip the UV or other filters for normal use.
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